BY JANE ARGODALE & SEAN EGAN | There’s no meal quite as efficient and tasty as an order of Chinese dumplings. The fried or steamed pockets of seasoned meat and/or vegetables are perfect as either an appetizer or a main course. Though Hell’s Kitchen may not be the first neighborhood that comes to mind when New Yorkers think of dumplings, we set out to explore the neighborhood’s offerings, and were pleasantly surprised by the variety. For all the carnivores out there, Jane Argodale handled the meat-based dumplings; as the resident vegetarian, Sean Egan sampled the steamed veggie options.
OLLIE’S SICHUAN | Located at 411 W. 42nd St. (btw. Ninth & 10th Aves.), this outpost of a small chain of Chinese restaurants in Manhattan offers well-priced Sichuan fare not far from the Theater District. With plenty of room for families and large groups, a tastefully-decorated interior, and a bar, this turned out to be the best of the three locations we visited to enjoy a long, more formal meal at — as plenty of people were doing during the bustling early evening hour when we arrived.
JA: The pan-fried pork dumplings are definitely treated more as an appetizer than a potential meal within themselves here. Though perfectly crispy and delicious, especially with their accompanying sauce, there’s not much actual pork filling, and the dumplings are pretty small.
SE: The biggest knock on the steamed veggie dumplings is their small size, and that they’re a tad doughy, but taste-wise there’s nothing to complain about. They’re very light and a little sweet, and my non-scientific probing revealed a nice assortment of goodies (carrots, mushrooms, etc.) comprised the medley within. They also are enhanced by the savory sauce they come with.
TASTY HAND-PULLED NOODLES II | From the room-temp water and Styrofoam cups on the table, to the handwritten receipt, Tasty Hand-Pulled Noodles II (648 Ninth Ave., btw. W. 45th & W. 46th Sts.) was definitely the most casual of all the places we visited. It also happened to be the smallest, as only about 20 people could fit in the shop (and fairly snugly at that). Still, the place had a pretty cool vibe — everyone from trendy looking twentysomethings to toddlers lined their long tables, speaking a variety of languages while chowing down. Being a little cheaper than the other options and playing a pretty awesome Mandarin-language, easy-listening cover of “We Are The World” also scores the spot some points. Plus, as a video display in the window proudly attested, Tasty Hand-Pulled Noodles II has the official endorsement of none other than comfort-food expert/frosted tip aficionado Guy Fieri, so it’s got that going for it!
JA: The best thing here is the selection of condiments at every table. There’s chili oil, soy sauce, black vinegar and sriracha. I doused my dumplings in the chili oil as soon as I got them. They’re a bit more chewy and not as well-cooked on the outside as the Ollie’s dumplings, but have significantly more pork inside.
SE: Yeah, this place was a bit underwhelming in terms of the dumplings themselves. While the veggie dumplings looked promisingly bigger than Ollie’s, as the adage goes, bigger isn’t necessarily better. The dumplings were filled with plainer, less flavorful veggies — lots of cabbage and onion and such that simultaneously felt heavier as well as blander. Thankfully, as Jane mentioned, the array of condiments was extensive, and the blander greens proved excellent at absorbing anything thrown at it. I’ll co-sign on the chili oil’s awesomeness, too.
NOTE: This place only provides you with chopsticks to eat with, which means if you don’t know how to use ’em like me [Sean], you will find yourself embarrassed in front of more cultured, coordinated company [Jane].
KUNG FU LITTLE STEAMED BUNS RAMEN | Upon approaching Kung Fu Little Steamed Buns Ramen (811 Eighth Ave., btw. W. 48th & W. 49th Sts.), the first thing we noticed (aside from how cute the restaurant’s name is) was how incredibly packed the place was. Granted, it was getting to be well and truly dinnertime — and apparently, the tiny eatery had a pretty good reputation. As if to one-up Tasty Hand-Pulled Noodles II’s Guy Fieri endorsement, Kung Fu proudly displayed a review from that notoriously Fieri-hating publication, the New York Times, by its door. Combined with its proximity to nearby Times Square, this made the place a bit of a madhouse on a Friday night (something to note). It was so busy, getting a table was impossible, and we were made to take our order to go. We loitered valiantly outside Kung Fu, waiting approximately 20 minutes for our two orders of dumplings. Combined with the slightly higher price tag, we commiserated that the dumpling better be truly great to justify all the inconvenience — and, against the odds, they delivered.
JA: The fried pork dumplings here were by far the best of the three places — perfectly cooked with a crispy outside, and a generous amount of pork and chive filling. These were the biggest dumplings of the three places as well. They’re definitely nowhere near as cheap as a place in Chinatown, but this is definitely the most worthwhile spot for dumplings in Hell’s Kitchen.
SE: There’s no question about it; these dumplings were, in fact, great — almost the Platonic ideal of dumplings. The ratio of filling to dough was perfect, and they were full of super-flavorful veggies — there was no need to douse them in any sauce, as they had a robust, umami flavor that held up all by itself. They were also pretty large and very filling, and could definitely be taken as a meal in and of themselves. I’m with Jane: It’s unquestionably the best place we visited in Hell’s Kitchen, and I’m looking forward to going back for more, and trying some of the other noodle-based dishes on the menu. I don’t even care if I have to wait outside.
